Black #149

Route #200

2024-02-28 · SBP Poplar

Another quite tricky, precise, slabby/non-exerting black. The start is very awkward: I was consistently able to start, but in inconsistent ways, with my positioning changing a bit each time. The large lower hold that you perch on is effectively slippery, not so much from intrinsic texture as just based on how the angles work out. From the initial perch, standing is okay, though be careful around the volume—the first time that I slid off, I bonked my chin on the top face. (First time I've done that, though it's frequently something that I worry about. It actually barely hurt; I think I got lucky. After that fall, I was more careful about head positioning and avoided further incident.)

But getting left is the really tricky part. The goal is to solidly establish on the lower of the two tetrahedral volumes, grabbing it with your left hand. For me, that move is surely the crux. Once you do that, you can shift weight left to grab it with your right hand, too, which rewards deliberate movement but isn't too hard. Then, either use the black chip or just smear to dyno up and grab the floating volume with left hand. That step and the subsequent scramble are pretty okay for me (a bit intimidating but still 100% success rate), though I've seen other people struggle with them.

This took me about a dozen tries, alternating with someone working on the same route, with a little bit of co-strategizing but mostly just slowly throwing ourselves at the wall. :-)

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