Black #23

Route #24

2022-05-26 · SBP Poplar

Downstairs, entry room, southern face. Extremely pleased with this one. I first saw it a month or so. The ending is easy enough (probably a standard orange), but the beginning is quite tricky, to get to the first handhold to the right. (It's not a friendly hold.) I first saw this route about a month ago, and was working with a sweet stranger on the beginning. Our approach at the time was to dyno it, but you end up with a lot of momentum that's pulling you off the wall. I started to think that a more controlled movement might be more feasible, especially with my reach, and have worked on this on and off since then. Some tips: you need all your momentum to be going into the wall and to the right, so point your right toe accordingly; also, rotate hips and get your right hand as close as possible before committing. Finally got the beginning and cleared the route without issue. Then, tried to capture on video; got the beginning three more times but was out of strength for the end. Hope to get this again on Saturday, if it's still here.

Update (2022-05-28): Re-cleared twice, including on video. For the last hold, pivot your weight to the left and into the wall.

« Back to route gallery