Black #69

Route #90

2023-05-22 · SBP Poplar

Project over four days. As of 2023-05-21, had managed to get all segments individually. From bottom to top, call the holds 1, 2 (big, two-handed start), 3 (tiny star), 4 (on volume), 5 and 6 (on volume corner), 7 (big), 8 (small), 9 and 10. The penultimate position is RH grabbing 9 and 10, LH on 8, LF on 7, RF dangling. Doing a semidynamic one-legged squat (with pull-up assistance) to the finish is difficult but possible, not made mentally easier by the steel beam directly above your head. Holds 5 and 6 don't seem useful, but the edges of the volume right near them are useful.

Start with hands on 2, RF on the wall below 1, and LF dangling. Grab left to 4, climb up feet, put LF on 4 with RH grabbing the, like, arête corner thing, and grab left to 7. Then get really close to the wall so that you can grab left to 8 and still stay stable. Hold 8 is really good! Much better than it looks, and versatile. From here, grab right to the top and bottom edges of the volume right around holds 5 and 6, giving you a bit of purchase to maneuver your balance up (pushing through LF) and dynamically grab to 9 and 10. These holds are awful individually but decent together; they can also get slippery, so chalk helps a lot. Get LF up to 7, stabilize, balance, prepare, and reach for the finish.

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