Pink #5

Route #202

2024-03-04 · SBP Poplar

This slope is so overhung that I typically find its climbs exhausting, so I probably wouldn't have tried this pink if not for the enthusiastic recommendation of a friend who flashed it(!). I'm glad I did! I worked on it for three sessions, and in my last two sessions, on each of my five total attempts I made one full hold's worth of progress, before finally finishing it.

The cuboid volume right above the start hold is the first stop, and it's very accommodating but also it helps to wear long sleeves on your right arm! Similarly, when heel hooking up to the right just after, ankle protectors can be helpful, though I eventually learned some positioning that wasn't painful at all. Once you're heel hooked in, dyno up right to the volume, then reposition and angle left to grab left to the giant half-moon so your wings are fully extended. Shimmy up from there—I like an intermediate position of pressing my upper thighs against the underside of the moon—before grabbing right to the higher volume, grabbing left to the high left hold, grabbing right to the high right hold, and bumping to the finish. Once you're grabbed the two top holds, you're completely dangling; just gotta hang on and go for it!

This route obviously takes strength and endurance for me, so I try to do it quickly to minimize leakage.

« Back to route gallery